Mortlach 11 2007 Hunter Laing Old Malt Cask

We’re back to Mortlach. But we’re also back to whisky tastings between Covid waves, as that’s our lives now.

I continue to look at Mortlach, as I like older Mortlach. Sadly, due to the human experience, old Mortlach is hard to find due to time moving forward. More so beyond my trapped existence in the laws of the universe, Mortlach changed the whisky. I don’t know which one I can change more, as one is tied to the fickle nature of capitalism and the other is inherent cosmic laws, and every day the first seems stronger.

Mortlach 11 2007 Hunter Laing Old Malt Cask is what I would have called “way too fucking young” for a Mortlach not 4 years ago. The new malt, it seems, takes younger ages than the old malt. That sentence made me feel gross, but I’m going to hope it’s not eventually used out of context.

This specific whisky is bottled by Hunter Laing and then sold exclusively by Kensington Wine Market. Thus you may have a hard time finding it outside of Calgary. That all said: It’s another Mortlach. I’m about to bring it to a tasting. Thus we do a review.

So how does it taste?

Price: $90 CAD

Region: Speyside

Vintage: June 2007

Bottled: August 2018

Cask number HL 17088

Number of bottles: 463

Bottled for: Kensington Wine Market

Abv: 50%

Colour: 5Y 9/4

Nose: Grassy/anise, pear, simple syrup, floral

So you start off with some of what I’ve called “vegan” Mortlach, aka grassy instead of meatiness. But then it goes very anise. Tons of anise. Enough anise to be the daughter of your sibling.

For new English readers: That’s a joke about how “anise” sounds like “a niece”.

Floral, simple sugar, and anise. That’s the main notes, and not like Mortlach save a bit of grass and some pear (and let’s be honest, stone fruit happens in a lot of whiskies).

Taste: Cloves, brown sugar, pear, black pepper, floral salt

Less anise and closer to cloves and brown sugar, with some more spice, a bit of the flora, and some pear.

Ever make a dish with a delicate flavour and use strong elements? That’s roughly the flavour here. It needs a bit more. Like maybe some meat? That’s mean and came from a dark place, I apologize.

Finish: Ginger, brown sugar, cardamom, floral

Spice, more spice, some spice, some floral (which acts like a spice) and brown sugar.

Give me back meaty Mortlach! I’m just acting out now, I apologize.

Conclusion: Tis a nice whisky, but tis no Mortlach.

Needs a bit more to it, but if you like floral and anise, then you’ll not mind it. During the tasting we agreed it was fine, just wasn’t like any Mortlach we’ve had, vegan or filled with ham flavour at all. That’s completely okay. This is why you drink single casks, after all.

Pick it up if you like anise, basically. I do, so I’m fine with having it as a daily dram. It’s cheap enough to do so. Pick it up if you’re a huge Mortlach fanboy? No, it’s not going to scratch the right itch.


Scotch review #1573, Speyside review #448, Whisky Network review #2297

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